Caulk a Tub
What You'll Need: A tube of caulk, plastic razor, mineral spirits, fine-threaded rag, painter's cassette, Magic Eraser or similar cleaning pad, scissors What It'll Price: $5 to greater than $30, based on the size of the project and which supplies you need to buy new Everything You Can Save: Upwards of $100, depending on the job's size Much Time It'll Take: 60 to 90 minutes How to Do It: This job is easier than replacing a drain flange. It the bathroom repair project I tackled, long before I had an ounce of,
toronto plumbing services. I promise you can do it too -- all you'll need is a steady hand and some patience. Here's how to do it, adapted from This Old House: Buy silicone or acrylic latex caulk. The former is harder to work with, but lasts longer; the latter is a lot easier to work with, but shorter-lived. Use a plastic razor (not a normal razor blade) to cut away the old caulk. Eliminate lingering chunks with a dry pad or Magic Eraser, then complete the job using a nice rag soaked in mineral oil. Follow the instructions on your caulking tube to prepare for application. You need scissors to cut on the suggestion at a 45-degree angle. Lay down painter's tape on each side of the joint. Use a damp rag to smooth the caulk in one fluid movement. Wipe away excess caulk as you go, taking care to leave behind a program. Without bothering the caulk, remove the tape of the painter . Repeat the process that is smoothing. Wait for the caulk to cure fully before using the tub -- ideally, 24 hours.
Replace Faucet Fixtures
What You'll Need: Your faucet assembly, plumber's putty or silicone, a basin wrench (optional), mineral spirits, hex wrench (probably included from the faucet assembly) What It'll Cost: $30 to $40 for an easy chrome faucet; up of $400 to get a high-end version (per Home Depot) Everything You Can Save$60 to over $500 (per HomeAdvisor) Long It'll Take: 60 The way to Do It: Replacing a tap isn't as hard as it seems. This explainer assumes you're not replacing the sink, only the true faucet meeting. It's adapted from this Lowe's how-to: Close to the hot and cold valves under the sink. If the sink does not have any valves, turn off your home's main valve. Open any remaining water from the lines to drain. Unscrew the water lines manually or with a basin wrench. Disconnect the lift pole (the bit that opens and closes the drain). Remove the nuts at the base of the faucet. Manually unscrew the plastic slip nut on the P-trap (the bend at the drain ) and disconnect the drain flange. Sink mounting holes and use mineral spirits or rust remover to clean around the drain. If not already done, install a gasket at the base of this faucet that is new. Add the faucet. Tighten the mounting nuts. If not already done, install the faucet handles and twist with a hex wrench (usually provided). Screw from the drain nut and fit tightly with the bottom gasket (push or screw in). Employ plumber's putty and twist within the drain . Make sure the pivot hole of that the flange faces backward. Further tighten the nuts and gasket. Install and test the drain pole assembly. Reconnect the supply lines and run the faucet. Check for retighten and leaks in the entire assembly or reinstall vital. Your faucet should include installation instructions. (How comprehensive they'll be is another matter.) Where these directions and those provided by the manufacturer conflict, check with the latter. Caution: Faucets come in all shapes and dimensions. If possible, have your old faucet meeting handy when you shop for your faucet. Buying the replacement at the first place will save you time and annoyance.
Replace or Reseal a Tub Drain
What You'll Need: A new drain stopper and flange (optional), a brand new drain gasket (optional), mineral spirits, plumber's putty or silicone, a drain removal instrument, an adjustable wrench (optional), a flathead screwdriver (optional) What It'll Price: $15 to $20 to get a fundamental stopper and flange assembly (per Grainger Industrial Supply -- including stopper) What You Could Save: $200 or more (per HomeWyse) How Long It'll Take: 30 to 60 minutes How to Do It: This how-to covers only the drain flange (basket) and stopper. It doesn't address the drain , nor the piping that connects your sewer line and your drain. Replacing these things may require moving your tub, putting a hole through your bathroom wall, or tearing up your shower . I've accommodated these measures from PlumbingSupply.com's tutorial on removing and replacing a drain flange. Unscrew your drain stopper and place aside (if not replacing). Insert your drain removal tool (drain key or smart dumbbell) into the drain and then rotate counterclockwise before the drain flange pops out. In case the removal tools don't work, use a hair dryer to heat the drain flange and soften the plumber's putty or silicone holding the flange and base in place. Try again after a few minutes. Clean the drain hole and surrounding areas. Pat dry, then allow to air dry. Check the shoe gasket. If the rubber is obviously worn out or it doesn't seem to be sealing tightly against the shoe any longer, use a flathead screwdriver to pop it out. Replace the gasket if warranted. Press it against the twist. Apply plumber's putty at a ring on the bottom of the new drain flange -- sufficient to create a complete seal with the bathtub. Put the new flange to the drain hole and twist in the drain 's threads. Hand-tighten for your first few rotations, then utilize a drain removal tool to tighten (clockwise) until there's just a little slack left. Use an adjustable wrench for the last quarter-turn. Don't overtighten -- that may squeeze the gasket out of place or crack the bathtub. Use mineral spirits to remove the putty of extra plumber from around the drain. Add the present or replacement stopper. Caution: make certain to apply a liberal amount of saline or plumberthe putty of . Inadequate coverage means flows, which could wreak havoc on your toilet floors -- not to mention that the walls and ceilings below. My dining room ceilings and walls lasted hundreds of dollars in completely preventable water damage since the previous owner (or a contractor he hired) skimped on plumber's putty from the upstairs tub.
Install or Replace a Faucet Aerator
Everything You'll Need: A new aerator, a wrench or socket wrench (optional) What It'll Cost: $1 to $10, based on attributes Everything You Can Save: 30% water leak reduction on faucets that are formerly un-aerated How Much Time It'll Take: 5 to 10 minutes The way to Do It: Installing an aerator is super simple. It among the easiest and most cost-effective tactics to reduce your house 's water use and bring down your water bills. Unscrew your aerator and take it into the shop or have it handy while you shop to get a replacement online. You'll need an identically sized and -configured replacement. If the aerator doesn't unscrew by hand, then use an adjustable wrench or socket wrench. Screw in the new aerator, tightening with a wrench or socket wrench. Check for leaks if necessary and repeat.